Product Details
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Original Item: Only One Available. This U.S. Army Officer Eagle insignia brooch by Trifari dates from 1945 or earlier, and is made from gilded metal and glass. It measures 2.5" H x 2.75" wide, is maker marked on the reverse and is offered in very good condition. It comes with a case, but we have no idea if its the original case or not as it is not marked or dated.
Wearing a pin designed after the country’s seal was an opportunity for women to express their patriotism, especially in 1945, a time marked by victory in Europe and Japan. This brooch is part of a wider trend of patriotic jewelry issued by Trifari and other jewelry manufacturers. These brooches, pendants and bracelets were not only purchased by women, but by their husbands, brothers and boyfriends as well. Known as “sweetheart jewelry” these pieces were worn in recognition of men in the wearers’ personal circles who had served their country as well as in general support of American troops. In addition to the insignia there were pieces honoring the navy, the signal corps, Uncle Sam top hats and bows mimicking ribbon of the stars and stripes.
Historically, sweetheart jewelry dates back to the First World War, serving as a connection between men overseas and loved ones back home. While a token in the First World War, the concept took hold during the Second World War with companies like Trifari and Coro creating pieces in patriotic themes. Production continued throughout the war years culminating with victory jewelry manufactured in 1945 that took the form of the country’s great seal, but also in the shape of ‘V’s adorned with red, white and blue stones.
Despite economic hardships during the Great Depression and rationing during the war years, jewelry remained fashionable. At a time when cloth was rationed and clothing was unadorned, pinning on a brooch or wearing a locket gave the wearer a sense of style.
Sweetheart jewelry from this pivotal point in United States history was made from a variety of materials. Due to metal rationing during World War II, Trifari was forced to switch to sterling silver instead of the base metal normally used in their products. This switch tripled the price of their products, but did not affect sales. Post-war, Trifari wanted to go back to a cheaper and maintenance-free metal but consumers preferred the sterling silver. In response, Trifari developed a “new” metal called Trifarium, a name the company invented for their base metal, which unlike silver, could be given a no-polish rhodium finish. The company also delivered fine costume jewelry to the growing middle class by using vermeil (a gold-plated finish) alongside faux stones like paste gemstones and imitation moonstone, chalcedony, and pearls.
In this tale of patriotic jewelry, it is important to note that Trifari itself is a product of the American dream. It was founded by Gustavo Trifari, an Italian immigrant who arrived at Ellis Island from Naples in 1904 at the age of 20. Six years later he founded Trifari and Trifari with his uncle. His uncle left the company after a few years, and Gustavo continued under the name Trifari. By the 1920s, Trifari had become one of the most respected producers of costume jewelry in the United States.
The Trifari brand is well known for their fine costume jewelry. Their pieces were created with the highest craftsmanship, in order to emulate high end jewelry. Gustavo Trifari arrived at Ellis Island in 1904 at the age of 20, from Italy. He came to America with a dream and by the 1910s, he established that dream with the creation of Trifari Jewelry. Jewelry had been in his family for years, with his father being a Napoli goldsmith.
By 1925, Trifari decided to partner with his sales managers, Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel, turning the company into Trifari, Krussman and Fishel. To this day, most of the jewelry is just known as Trifari.
In a great marketing move for the company, during the 1930s, Trifari started working with Broadway and Hollywood producers. Trifari would create custom costume jewelry pieces for famous actors, creating an instant form of advertising for the company.
One of Trifari’s greatest business moves though, was hiring Alfred Philippe as their Chief Designer. Alfred, a French craftsman, was with the company from 1930-1968, though prior to joining Trifari, he worked for Van Cleef & Arpels. With Van Cleef, he developed the use of the invisible setting, and he brought that over to the world of costume jewelry with Trifari. Invisible setting is a way of setting diamonds and gemstones to make it look like there are no prongs or bezels holding the stones in. It is almost as if the setting is invisible, hence the name!
This style had previously been known only in high end jewelry, like Van Cleef, so it was revolutionary to have brought this type of luxury into the costume jewelry world. The ability for Trifari to emulate high jewelry allowed them to broaden their clientele scope. Alfred not only brought this technique to Trifari, but also his fine level of craftsmanship. This impeccable work skill can be seen throughout all of Trifari’s pieces.
With this increased level of skill at Trifari, they started to gain well known celebrity clientele.
During World War II, there were major metal rationing, which affected all businesses, including jewelry. Many jewelers, including Trifari, switched to Sterling Silver during this time. After the war, they wanted to go back to their previous metals, but customers were used to and like the silver. In order to accommodate their clientele, but while also staying fresh, Trifari started advertising a ‘new’ metal called Trifanium. Trifanium is a basic metal alloy which could be polished to a shiny finish, but wouldn’t tarnish like silver. You’ll see this metal in many of their pieces.
Similar to other costume jewelers of the time, Trifari used paste and imitation gemstones. We often see imitation moonstone, chalcedony and pearls. Rhinestones and enamel were also often used.
MOST COLLECTIBLE STYLES
Trifari created many designs, but there are a few that stand out as some of the most prized. First we have the famous Trifari Crown Brooches. These pieces were one of Alfred’s designs which he made from the 1930s to 1950s. Designed in a crown motif, these pieces are very colorful and bright! Often you will see two large cabochons of imitation gemstones, with glittering rhinestones throughout. There was often a base of baguette cut imitation gemstones as well.
In order to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II taking the throne they created a Coronation Gem Series, which included a crown as well. These pieces became so popular and synonymous with the brand, that Trifari decided to incorporate a crown motif into their hallmark.One of their most famous clients was First Lady Mamie Eisenhower. During her time as First Lady, Mamie was ranked as one of the best-dressed women in the country by New York Dress Institute. She like to mix both high end and lower end items, which is where her love of costume jewelry, particularly Trifari, came in.
For the inaugural ball in 1953, Mamie had Alfred design a set of pearl jewelry for her. The set included a pearl choker necklace with a matching three stranded bracelet and earrings. There was a set made for her, the Smithsonian and Trifari archives. These pieces complimented her pink gown which was embroidered with rhinestones. She loved this set so much that she had Trifari design another for the inaugural ball in 1957.
Trifari continued to produce high quality pieces, well into the 1990s. In 1994 it became part of the Monet Group, and was then acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2000.
Wearing a pin designed after the country’s seal was an opportunity for women to express their patriotism, especially in 1945, a time marked by victory in Europe and Japan. This brooch is part of a wider trend of patriotic jewelry issued by Trifari and other jewelry manufacturers. These brooches, pendants and bracelets were not only purchased by women, but by their husbands, brothers and boyfriends as well. Known as “sweetheart jewelry” these pieces were worn in recognition of men in the wearers’ personal circles who had served their country as well as in general support of American troops. In addition to the insignia there were pieces honoring the navy, the signal corps, Uncle Sam top hats and bows mimicking ribbon of the stars and stripes.
Historically, sweetheart jewelry dates back to the First World War, serving as a connection between men overseas and loved ones back home. While a token in the First World War, the concept took hold during the Second World War with companies like Trifari and Coro creating pieces in patriotic themes. Production continued throughout the war years culminating with victory jewelry manufactured in 1945 that took the form of the country’s great seal, but also in the shape of ‘V’s adorned with red, white and blue stones.
Despite economic hardships during the Great Depression and rationing during the war years, jewelry remained fashionable. At a time when cloth was rationed and clothing was unadorned, pinning on a brooch or wearing a locket gave the wearer a sense of style.
Sweetheart jewelry from this pivotal point in United States history was made from a variety of materials. Due to metal rationing during World War II, Trifari was forced to switch to sterling silver instead of the base metal normally used in their products. This switch tripled the price of their products, but did not affect sales. Post-war, Trifari wanted to go back to a cheaper and maintenance-free metal but consumers preferred the sterling silver. In response, Trifari developed a “new” metal called Trifarium, a name the company invented for their base metal, which unlike silver, could be given a no-polish rhodium finish. The company also delivered fine costume jewelry to the growing middle class by using vermeil (a gold-plated finish) alongside faux stones like paste gemstones and imitation moonstone, chalcedony, and pearls.
In this tale of patriotic jewelry, it is important to note that Trifari itself is a product of the American dream. It was founded by Gustavo Trifari, an Italian immigrant who arrived at Ellis Island from Naples in 1904 at the age of 20. Six years later he founded Trifari and Trifari with his uncle. His uncle left the company after a few years, and Gustavo continued under the name Trifari. By the 1920s, Trifari had become one of the most respected producers of costume jewelry in the United States.
The Trifari brand is well known for their fine costume jewelry. Their pieces were created with the highest craftsmanship, in order to emulate high end jewelry. Gustavo Trifari arrived at Ellis Island in 1904 at the age of 20, from Italy. He came to America with a dream and by the 1910s, he established that dream with the creation of Trifari Jewelry. Jewelry had been in his family for years, with his father being a Napoli goldsmith.
By 1925, Trifari decided to partner with his sales managers, Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel, turning the company into Trifari, Krussman and Fishel. To this day, most of the jewelry is just known as Trifari.
In a great marketing move for the company, during the 1930s, Trifari started working with Broadway and Hollywood producers. Trifari would create custom costume jewelry pieces for famous actors, creating an instant form of advertising for the company.
One of Trifari’s greatest business moves though, was hiring Alfred Philippe as their Chief Designer. Alfred, a French craftsman, was with the company from 1930-1968, though prior to joining Trifari, he worked for Van Cleef & Arpels. With Van Cleef, he developed the use of the invisible setting, and he brought that over to the world of costume jewelry with Trifari. Invisible setting is a way of setting diamonds and gemstones to make it look like there are no prongs or bezels holding the stones in. It is almost as if the setting is invisible, hence the name!
This style had previously been known only in high end jewelry, like Van Cleef, so it was revolutionary to have brought this type of luxury into the costume jewelry world. The ability for Trifari to emulate high jewelry allowed them to broaden their clientele scope. Alfred not only brought this technique to Trifari, but also his fine level of craftsmanship. This impeccable work skill can be seen throughout all of Trifari’s pieces.
With this increased level of skill at Trifari, they started to gain well known celebrity clientele.
During World War II, there were major metal rationing, which affected all businesses, including jewelry. Many jewelers, including Trifari, switched to Sterling Silver during this time. After the war, they wanted to go back to their previous metals, but customers were used to and like the silver. In order to accommodate their clientele, but while also staying fresh, Trifari started advertising a ‘new’ metal called Trifanium. Trifanium is a basic metal alloy which could be polished to a shiny finish, but wouldn’t tarnish like silver. You’ll see this metal in many of their pieces.
Similar to other costume jewelers of the time, Trifari used paste and imitation gemstones. We often see imitation moonstone, chalcedony and pearls. Rhinestones and enamel were also often used.
MOST COLLECTIBLE STYLES
Trifari created many designs, but there are a few that stand out as some of the most prized. First we have the famous Trifari Crown Brooches. These pieces were one of Alfred’s designs which he made from the 1930s to 1950s. Designed in a crown motif, these pieces are very colorful and bright! Often you will see two large cabochons of imitation gemstones, with glittering rhinestones throughout. There was often a base of baguette cut imitation gemstones as well.
In order to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II taking the throne they created a Coronation Gem Series, which included a crown as well. These pieces became so popular and synonymous with the brand, that Trifari decided to incorporate a crown motif into their hallmark.One of their most famous clients was First Lady Mamie Eisenhower. During her time as First Lady, Mamie was ranked as one of the best-dressed women in the country by New York Dress Institute. She like to mix both high end and lower end items, which is where her love of costume jewelry, particularly Trifari, came in.
For the inaugural ball in 1953, Mamie had Alfred design a set of pearl jewelry for her. The set included a pearl choker necklace with a matching three stranded bracelet and earrings. There was a set made for her, the Smithsonian and Trifari archives. These pieces complimented her pink gown which was embroidered with rhinestones. She loved this set so much that she had Trifari design another for the inaugural ball in 1957.
Trifari continued to produce high quality pieces, well into the 1990s. In 1994 it became part of the Monet Group, and was then acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2000.
